Iowa state university microsoft office. It seems that there has been a lot of confusion over the Sig SRT kits, so I thought it might be good to clear some stuff up here. The following information is as of November 7th, 2010 and is subject to change at any time. • As of November 7th 2010 there are THREE (3) SRT kits available to Sig certified armorers. These are the P220 kit, the P226/P229 kit, and the P239 kit. The P220 kit ~should~ also work with the P245 and the P226/P229 kit ~should~ work with the P6 / P225 / P228, but they are not ~officially~ supported. • The current version of the Sig P226 / P229 kit consists of a new sear and safety lever ONLY. Other kits include other parts listed below, but the safety lever and sear are IDENTICAL between kits. Once again, the sear and safety lever are the same across all three kits. If you're looking to convert a P226 and you can only find a P220 kit you'll be fine, you'll just have a spare P220 SRT decocking lever in your spare parts drawer. Same deal with a P239 kit only it'll be a spare trigger bar spring. A couple of weeks ago I had a chance to shoot a friend's P229 with the Grayguns P-Str8 adjustable trigger and the Sig SRT (Short Reset Trigger) sear. It felt like the Grayguns trigger made a huge difference in terms of pre-travel and smoothness of the DA pull. Fire emblem warriors characters. The Grayguns trigger is also adjustable for over-travel. NO creep/slack in the trigger pull. The trigger is now steady all the way through. IMO, that's worth the money to get the SRT. Installing it is very simple. There is a stickied thread that details how install it and detail strip and clean your Sig Classic series pistol. Corel videostudio x9 download. • The current version of the Sig P220 kit includes a new decocking lever as well as the new sear and safety lever. The OLD version of the kit had a different sear instead of a decocking lever, but apparently that kit has not been shipped in a long time. • The current version of the Sig P239 kit includes a new trigger bar spring as well as the new sear and safety lever. The trigger bar spring is similar but NOT the same as the P226/P229 new style 'curly' spring. It's about 1/2 an inch longer. Unfortunately I don't have a P239 handy to compare the difference with any more specificity. (Feel free to send me one. ) Here are some pictures. You can see the difference between the SRT (left) and non SRT (right) sear and safety levers in the first three. The fourth picture is the P220, P226/P229, and P239 kits as shipped from Sig. Please note that, according to Sig corporate dogma, SRT kits should only be installed by Sig Sauer certified armorers. (Click on the pictures to enlarge.) Here are some close-ups of the p220 SRT and non-SRT decocker. ONLY the p220 kit comes with a new decocker. For those interested in the mechanics of how these work, in a nutshell: • With the non-SRT system the safety lever would reset itself whenever the disconnecter pushed the trigger bar down. (Note the 'shelf' that sticks out at a 90 degree angle and catches on the tigger bar.) Resetting the trigger would involve resetting the trigger bar AND the safety lever. The trigger bar reset is only 1/8th of an inch or so, but the safety lever is about another 1/4' on top of that. • With the SRT system the safety lever stays engaged as long as the trigger is pulled regardless of the position of the disconnecter / trigger bar. (Note that the 'shelf' on the non-SRT safety lever is now on the SRT sear.) This means that the reset involves the trigger bar only and NOT the safety lever as before. Since the bulk of the original reset travel is the safety lever, eliminating this step reduces the reset considerably (60% or so.) NOTE: The difference between the SRT and non-SRT is not apparent unless you have the slide installed OR unless you're manually resetting the safety lever. With the slide off there's no firing pin safety spring to push down on the the safety lever so there's no safety lever reset!
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